This is especially crucial with larger tanks as you dont want any pressure points that can split your tanks seams. Not only will you be able to keep most fish and corals in this tank, your parameters (salinity, ph, etc) will tend not to fluctuate as much in a larger tank. What many aquarists dont know is you do not need to use live rock to start.
This will introduce some bacteria and life to your tank. All you have to do now is add top off water to make up for the water that has evaporated. If you do end up getting some algae run some GFO (granular ferric oxide) in a media bag in a filter to remove the phosphates from your water. Get your salinity up to about 1. They also give you an option to setup in a sump (another article, another time) or hang on the back of your tank. We will get into nitrates later on but for now just make sure you purchase enough sand. Skimming and water changes will keep nitrates under control.
I recommend getting one at your local aquarium store that is designed Hotel Acrylic Swimming Pool for the aquarium. Add about one fish or coral once a week and take it slow. They will both give you the same end result and dry rock gains about 10-30% more weight once its wet so its a better value.024 or 1.Ok, now that you have purchased your powerheads, heater and salt its time to fill up the tank with water.
They recommend what size is required (in watts) on their packaging and websites. If it tests zero you can start by adding a fish. In a nutshell what happens is the bacteria eat the ammonia and produce nitrites (another type of ammonia), yet another bacteria turns the nitrites into nitrates which are pretty much left in your tank to accumulate. Purchase a large enough heater because temperature consistency is important for your livestock.. Measuring salinity with a plastic hydrometer is just not accurate and will cause you grief.